The Shelters of Stone (Earth's Children 5)

Zelandonii women wore other decorations or sewed them to their clothing, but they particularly liked to wear fringes that moved sensuously when they walked, whether they decorated a warm winter tunic or a naked body. And though they avoided explicitly red fringes, many women chose colors that contained a strong hint of red.

Ayla’s Mamutoi outfit had no fringes, but there was no doubt that a tremendous amount of effort had been put into making it. The leather, which was of the finest quality, was a rich, earthy, golden yellow hue that almost matched the color of her hair, the result primarily of yellow ochres mixed subtly with reds and other colors. The hide had probably come from deer of some variety, or perhaps saiga antelope, Marthona thought, though it wasn’t the usual velvety soft buckskin of a well-scraped hide. Instead, although it was very soft, the leather had a burnished, shiny finish that was somewhat waterproof.

But the quality of the basic garments was only the beginning; it was the exquisite decoration that made the outfit so extraordinary. The long leather tunic and the lower part of the leggings were covered with elaborate geometric designs made predominantly of ivory beads, some sections solidly filled in. The designs began with downward pointing triangles, which developed horizontally into zigzags and vertically into diamonds and chevrons, then evolved into complex geometric figures such as rectangular spirals and concentric rhomboids.

The ivory beaded designs were highlighted and defined by many small amber beads in shades both lighter and darker than the leather, but of the same tone, and with embroideries of red, brown, and black. The tunic, which fell to a downward-pointing triangle at the back, opened down the front, with the section below the hips tapering so that when it was brought together, another downward-pointing triangle was created. It was tied closed at the waist with a finger-woven sash in a similar geometric pattern made of red mammoth hair with accents of ivory mouflon wool, brown musk ox underdown, and deep reddish-black woolly rhinoceros hair.

The outfit was stunning, a magnificent work of art. The workmanship in every detail was excellent. It was evident that someone had secured the finest materials and utilized the most skillful and accomplished artisans to create the finished outfit, and no effort had been spared. The beadwork was a good example. Though Marthona saw them only as a huge number, more than three thousand ivory beads made from mammoth tusk were sewn onto the garments, and each small bead had been carved, pierced, and polished by hand.

Jondalar’s mother had never seen anything like it, but she knew immediately that whoever had directed the outfit to be made commanded great respect and held a very high position within the community. It was clear that the time and labor that went into the making of it were incalculable, yet the outfit had been given to Ayla when she left. None of the benefits of the resources and work would stay within the community that made it. Ayla said she had been adopted, but whoever had adopted her obviously possessed tremendous power and presrige—in effect, wealth—and no one understood that better than Marthona.

No wonder she wants to wear her own Matrimonial outfit, Marthona thought, and she should. It won’t hurt Jondalar’s presrige, either. This young woman is certainly full of surprises. Without question, she is going to be the most talked about woman at the Summer Meeting this year.

“The outfit is striking, Ayla, really quite beautiful,” Marthona said. “Who made it for you?”

“Nezzie did, but she had a lot of help.” Ayla was pleased by the older woman’s reaction.

“Yes, I’m sure she did,” Marthona commented. “You’ve mentioned her before, but I don’t recall exactly who she is.”

“She’s the mate of Talut, the headman of the Lion Camp, the one who was going to adopt me, but then Mamut did instead. I think it was Mamut who asked Nezzie to make it.”

“And Mamut is One Who Serves the Mother?”

“I think he may have been First, like your Zelandoni. Anyway, he was certainly the oldest. I think he was the oldest Mamutoi alive. When I left, my friend Deegie was expecting, and her brother’s woman was almost ready to give birth. Both children would be counted his fifth generation.”

Marthona gave a knowing nod. She knew that whoever had adopted Ayla had a great deal of influence; she hadn’t realized he was probably the most respected and powerful person of all his people. That explained a lot, she thought. “You said there were certain customs associated with wearing this?”

“The Mamutoi do not think it’s appropriate to wear a Matrimonial outfit before the ceremony. You can show family and close friends, but you are not supposed to wear it in public,” Ayla said. “Would you like to see how the tunic loóles?”

Jondalar grunted and turned over in his sleep, and Marthona glanced in the direction of their sleeping furs. She lowered her voice even more. “So long as Jondalar is still asleep. We do not consider it appropriate for him to see you in your Matrimonial clothing until the ceremony.”

Ayla slipped off her summer tunic and picked up the heavy, ornately decorated one. “Nezzie told me to wear it closed like this if I just want to show someone,” Ayla whispered as she tied it closed with the sash. “But for the ceremon

y, it should be open, like this,” she said, rearranging the garment and retying the sash. “Nezzie said, ‘A woman proudly shows her breasts when she is joined, when she brings her hearth to form a union with a man.’ I’m not really supposed to wear it open before the mating ceremony, but since you are Jondalar’s mother, I think it’s right for you to see.”

Marthona nodded. “I am very pleased that you showed me. It is our custom to show Matrimonial clothing before the occasion only to women, intimate friends or family, but I don’t think anyone else should see yours just yet. I think it would be …,” Marthona paused and smiled, “interesting to surprise everyone. If you like, we can hang it in my room so the creases can straighten out. A little steam would help, too.”

“Thank you. I’ve been wondering where I could put it. Can this beautiful tunic that you gave me stay in your room, too?” Ayla paused, remembering something else. “And I have another tunic I would like to put somewhere, one I made. Would you keep that for me?”

“Yes, of course. But put your outfits away for now. We can do it after Willamar wakes up. Is there anything else you’d like me to keep?” Marthona said.

“I have necklaces and things, but they can stay in my traveling packs, since I’ll be taking them with me to the Summer Meeting,” Ayla said.

“Do you have much?” Marthona couldn’t resist asking.

“Only two necklaces, including the one from you, an armband, two spiral shells for my ears, given to me by a woman who dances, and two matched pieces of amber that Tulie gave me when I left. She was the headwoman of the Lion Camp, Talut’s sister, and Deegie’s mother. She thought I should wear them on my ears at my mating, since they would match the tunic. I would like to, but my ears are not pierced,” Ayla said.

“I’m sure Zelandoni would be happy to pierce them for you, if you want,” Marthona said.

“I think I would. I don’t want any other piercings, at least not yet, but I would like to wear the matched ambers when Jondalar and I are mated, and the outfit from Nezzie.”

“This Nezzie must have been quite fond of you to have done so much for you,” Marthona commented.

“I certainly was fond of her,” Ayla replied. “If it hadn’t been for Nezzie, I don’t think I would have followed Jondalar when he left. I was supposed to mate with Ranec the next day. He was the son of her brother’s hearth, although she was more like a mother to him. But Nezzie knew Jondalar loved me, and she told me that if I really loved him to go after him and tell him so. She was right. It was hard to tell Ranec I was leaving, though. I did care for him, very much, but I loved Jondalar.”

“You must have, or you would not have left people who held you in such high regard to come home with him,” Marthona said.

Ayla noticed Jondalar shifting around again and stood up. Marthona sipped her tea, watching the young woman as she refolded her Matrimonial outfit, then the woven tunic, and put them in her traveling pack. When she returned, she motioned toward her sewing kit, which was on the table.