From there, we made our way to Casa Aliaga, which was located just off the main plaza. Literally, "Aliaga's House," it was one of the most striking examples of early Spanish architecture in the city, yet from the outside it blended into the other structures on the block. Unless you knew it was there, a person could walk by without noticing it.
Beyond the doors, however, was a home that boggled the mind.
Casa Aliaga has been owned by the Aliaga family for over four hundred years, and is still occupied by the Aliagas today. Designed in typical hacienda fashion, rooms surround an open courtyard, complete with a hundred-foot-tall fig tree stretching to the sky. It is also home to one of the finest art collections in South America. Because the house is so large and expensive to maintain, the Aliagas open the house to tourists, and Micah and I wandered through with wide eyes. Everything, with the exception of the plaster walls--the banisters, door frames, crown moldings, and railings--had been intricately carved, and paintings covered every available wall space. The furniture, mostly from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, was so ornate that it was impossible for us to bring our cameras into focus.
As we were walking through the house, Micah finally turned to me.
"Can you believe this place?"
"No. That tree . . . well, everything really . . . it's incredible."
"I'll bet you're getting some good ideas for the next time you remodel, huh?"
I laughed. "I have to admit that it would be nice to have paintings of famous ancestors."
"You mean if we had any."
"Exactly. While the Aliaga family was building this place, our ancestors were probably putting shoes on horses and working the farm."
He nodded and looked around. Our group had dispersed throughout various rooms in the house.
"Be honest though--would you want to live here?"
I shook my head. "No," I said. "It's . . . unbelievable, but it's not really my style. And the upkeep must keep the owners awake at night."
"I know what you mean. I mean, can you imagine how long it takes to dust this place? Christine would die."
The TCS crew began herding us together, counting heads, and making sure everyone was accounted for. After leaving Casa Aliaga, we climbed back on the bus for the ride to the hotel.
This would become our routine over the next few weeks. While a tour like ours has advantages, the schedule is carefully predetermined, and in many places there's little time to linger or explore on your own.
It was the night of the Super Bowl. The Tampa Bay Buccaneers were playing the Oakland Raiders, and a number of people in the tour wanted to watch it, including Micah. Because he lived in Sacramento, the Raiders were his favorite team and he'd even been to a few of the games that year. We weren't even sure the game would be broadcast in Peru, and there was a veritable whoop on the bus when TCS confirmed that it would be. The game would be on via satellite in the bar, and would stay tuned there throughout the game; apparently, this required quite a bit of finagling by the crew of TCS; few people in Peru care about the Super Bowl, and a soccer game--which was important to Peruvians--wouldn't be shown.
Wanting a good seat, Micah and I were among the first to arrive and we began ordering traditional pregame goodies. Others gradually joined us. Half the crowd favored Tampa Bay, the other half favored Oakland, and by the time it was ready for the game to begin, the hotel bar looked like a bar in any city in the United States. There wasn't a local anywhere near the place.
There was no pregame show; instead, roughly five minutes before the start of the game, the television flickered once or twice, and we found ourselves watching the teams lining up for the kickoff.
"See, everything we're doing is new," Micah said. "Be honest, who do you know who's ever watched the Super Bowl in Lima?"
"No one," I admitted.
"Having fun yet?"
"Having a blast," I answered.
"You thinking about work?"
"Nope. Just thinking about the game."
He waved a french fry at me. "Good. There's hope for you yet."
"Turn it up!" someone yelled from behind us. "We can't hear in the back!"
The bartender used the remote, and the volume began to rise. With it, the familiar sounds started to register. We heard the roar of the crowd, the names of the players as they were announced in the stadium, then the coin toss. Only then did the announcers begin their commentary.
Everyone leaned forward.
"What the hell are they saying?" someone shouted.
"I don't know," another answered. "I think they're announcing it in . . . Spanish."
Of course, it made perfect sense once you thought about it.
"Spanish?"
"It's the official language of Peru," Micah offered. "And Spain."
No one thought it was funny.
"I thought it was coming in on satellite," someone grumbled. "From the States. Maybe it's in English on another channel."
The bartender surfed around; this was it. Spanish or nothing.
I leaned toward Micah. "Now you really have a story to tell," I said. "Not only did you see your favorite team play in the Super Bowl in Lima, Peru, but you can tell them you heard it in Spanish."
"Now you're getting in the spirit. That's exactly what I was going to say."
We settled in to watch the game. The Raiders weren't playing well and quickly fell behind. Micah's cheers gradually grew more infrequent, and by halftime, he was shaking his head.
"You gotta have faith," I urged.
"I think I'm losing it."
"I've heard that," I said pointedly, recalling my previous conversations I'd had with his wife, Christine. "So, are you still avoiding church?"
He smiled, but didn't look at me. Faith and religion was a subject we often discussed, even through our early years. Since Micah had married, however, the subject had been coming up more regularly. Christine wasn't Catholic, and instead of going to Mass, they attended a nondenominational Christian service. Unlike the Mass I preferred, which is highly traditional, with only slight variation from week to week, Micah preferred a service with less structure and more time for personal reflection. Or, more accurately, those were his original reasons when he explained the change to me. But lately, even those differences hadn't seemed to matter.
"Let me guess. Christine told you to ask me about this on the trip, didn't she?"
I said nothing. Micah shifted in his seat.
"No, I go sometimes. But only because Christine wants me to. She thinks it's important for me to go because of the kids."
"And?"
"And what?"
"Are you getting anything out of it?"
"Not really."
"Are you praying at all?"
"I haven't prayed in three years."
A life without prayer is something I couldn't imagine. In no small way, I'd been depending on prayer for as long as he'd been avoiding it.
"Don't you feel like you're missing something?"
"I don't pray because it doesn't work," he said curtly. "Prayer doesn't fix anything. Bad things happen anyway."
"Don't you think it helps you handle those bad times, though?"
He didn't answer, and by his silence I knew he didn't want to talk about it. Not yet, anyway.
In the end, the game was a blowout. Tampa Bay had the game in hand, and Micah and I left the bar to work out in the hotel gym during the second half. We jogged and lifted weights; afterward, we went back to our room and collapsed on the bed.
"Sorry your team lost," I said.
"No big deal," he said. "I'm not like you used to be. Remember? Back when you were a kid? You used to cry whenever the Vikings lost."
The Minnesota Vikings had been my favorite team growing up; I'd picked them because it was where Dana was born.
"I remember. It broke my heart when they lost the Super Bowl."
"Which one? They lost a bunch of them."
"Thanks for reminding me."